Pennate Plant Vocabulary

How we define sun, water, zones, maintenance, and more—so you always know what we mean when we recommend a plant.

Before you can choose the right plants for your yard, you need a common language.
“Full sun.” “Part shade.” “Drought tolerant.” “Low maintenance.”
Every nursery and website seems to use these terms slightly differently. Some are using a strict horticulture definition. Some are just… guessing.
At Pennate, we publish our plant vocabulary so you always know what we mean on:

  • plant pages in the shop
  • design notes and proposals
  • GardenSwipe and GardenSketch recommendations
  • care guides and blog posts

These definitions are written for Florida conditions and informed by university research, trade standards, and what we see in real landscapes across Tampa Bay and the Gulf Coast.
You’re welcome to use them as a reference, whether you’re a homeowner, a designer, or the “family plant person” trying to keep everything alive.

Version: Pennate Plant Vocabulary v0.1
Published: December 2025 • Last reviewed: December 2025

How to Use This Vocabulary

This page is a reference, not a test.

  • When you see a label like “Full sun” or “Low maintenance” in a Pennate design or plant listing, it’s using the exact definitions below.
  • These definitions assume Florida light and heat, not a generic national average. Full sun in Tampa is not the same experience as full sun in Seattle.
  • Where research and real-world experience disagree, we explain how we handle it and why.

As this library grows, we’ll refine it. The goal is consistency and clarity, not perfection on day one.

Sunlight: Full Sun, Part Sun, Part Shade, and Full Shade

Sun exposure labels at Pennate are based on average hours of direct sun per day in Florida, not just how “bright” a spot feels.

Full sun

A location that receives at least six hours of direct, unobstructed sun per day.

  • open front or back yards with no overhead tree canopy
  • South- or West-facing exposures without shade from buildings or large trees

Plants labeled “full sun” usually look their best here. In less than full sun, they may stretch, thin out, or flower poorly.

Part sun (4–6 hours)

A mix of sun and shade, often with direct sun in the morning or late afternoon but some protection at other times.

  • East-facing beds
  • areas that get sun before the oak canopy fills in
  • spots with a few hours of strong light and then bright shade

Many flowering shrubs and perennials fall in this category.

Part shade (2–4 hours)

Areas with limited direct sun or bright, dappled light for a few hours a day.

  • beds under high, thin tree canopies
  • North- or East-facing walls with reflected light
  • areas that get early morning sun and then shade

This is a sweet spot for many “shade tolerant” plants that still benefit from some light.

Full shade (less than 2 hours direct sun)

Little to no direct sun. Light may be bright but indirect, or genuinely dim.

  • tight side yards between houses
  • spaces directly under dense oaks or palms
  • North-facing alcoves and courtyards

Tip: If you’re not sure what you have, track sun on a clear day. Check the area every hour or two and jot down when it’s in direct sun vs shade. Florida sun is efficient—if we say a plant needs full sun, it truly needs it.

Water Needs vs Drought Tolerance

We separate how you should water a plant from how it behaves when you don’t.

  • Water needs describe the ideal care once a plant is established.
  • Drought tolerance describes how forgiving a plant is when irrigation isn’t perfect.

You’ll see both concepts reflected in our plant listings and designs.

Water Needs

Low water need

Once established, these plants can handle infrequent, deeper waterings and longer dry gaps. They’re good candidates for lower-input or more xeric-style landscapes.
Low water need does not mean “no water ever.” It means they’re comfortable on a restrained irrigation schedule once roots are set.

Medium water need

The default. These plants perform best on a typical Florida irrigation schedule—regular watering, not daily pampering, but also not living on neglect.
Most standard residential landscapes fall into this category.

High water need

These plants expect consistently moist soil, especially in the warm season. They may wilt, burn, or defoliate if the soil is allowed to dry out regularly.
They’re often best suited to:

  • rain gardens
  • low spots
  • near irrigation zones with reliable coverage
  • or for people who genuinely enjoy watering and monitoring their plants.

Drought Tolerance

How forgiving a plant is when life gets busy and irrigation isn’t perfect.

Poor: Declines quickly without regular irrigation. You’ll see wilting, leaf drop, or dieback if the root zone dries out.
Moderate: Tolerates short dry spells with some cosmetic stress. A missed watering or a few extra hot days will show, but the plant usually recovers.
Good: Handles extended dry periods once established with only modest stress. With occasional supplemental watering, these plants stay attractive in many low-input yards.
Excellent: Built for low water. Once established in the right spot, these plants are appropriate for very dry conditions, rockier soils, or more deliberate xeric designs.

Soil, Drainage, and pH

Florida soils are a mix of sands, shell, fill, and organics. We keep the soil vocabulary practical.

Drainage

Needs well-drained soils: Roots dislike sitting in water. These plants should not be placed in low spots that stay soggy or areas with chronic drainage problems. Slightly moist after a storm is fine; standing water for days is not.
Tolerates moist soils: Comfortable in normal beds and slightly damp areas, as long as the soil is not waterlogged for extended periods. A good match for many irrigated landscapes and gentle swales.
Likes moist to wet soils: Prefers consistently moist conditions and can handle wet feet much better than average landscape plants. Ideal for rain gardens, the edges of retention areas, and spots that stay damp after storms.
Tolerates standing water: Capable of surviving in very wet sites or areas with periodic standing water. These are your pond margins, ditch stabilizers, and serious rain garden candidates.

Soil pH

Soil pH measures how acidic or alkaline the soil is. Florida soils can be quite variable, especially when fill or construction spoil is involved.

We refer to pH in broad bands:

  • Acidic: below ~6.0
  • Slightly acidic: roughly 6.0–6.5
  • Neutral: about 6.5–7.5
  • Alkaline: above ~7.5

Our plant listings may include a preferred pH range and a general category. If you’re dealing with chlorosis, poor performance, or a tricky site, matching pH can become very important.

Plant Types and Growth Habit

These labels describe the basic structure of a plant and how it occupies space. They help guide placement, spacing, and long-term expectations.

Plant Types

  • Tree – Woody plants with a single or dominant trunk and a canopy.
  • Shrub – Multi-stemmed woody plants, generally shorter than trees.
  • Palm – Palms and palm-like plants with a trunk or pseudo-trunk.
  • Vine / climber – Plants that climb, sprawl, or need support.
  • Groundcover – Low, spreading plants that form a continuous carpet.
  • Ornamental grass / sedge – Grass-like plants used for texture and movement.
  • Perennial – Non-woody plants that live for several years.
  • Annual – Plants that complete their life cycle in one warm season here.
  • Fern – True ferns and fern allies.
  • Succulent / cactus – Plants with thickened, water-storing tissues.

Growth Habit (form)

  • Upright – Primarily vertical; good for narrower spaces and formal accents.
  • Spreading – Grows wider than tall; better for massing and coverage.
  • Clumping – Forms defined clumps or mounds without aggressive runners.
  • Vining – Climbs or sprawls; often needs structures or space to roam.
  • Weeping – Has drooping, pendulous branches or fronds.
  • Columnar – Tall and narrow; a “vertical pencil” in the landscape.
  • Mat-forming – Very low, forming dense mats close to the ground.

Growth habit is one of the most important traits when you’re trying to avoid the classic “planted too close to the house” problem.

Maintenance Level, Wind, and Salt Tolerance

We live in a hurricane and salt-spray world. These labels are based on both research and what we see after real storms.

Maintenance Level

Low maintenance

  • Minimal pruning or shaping
  • Limited leaf litter or debris
  • Generally resistant to common pests/diseases in our region

Good candidates for people who want impact without constant work.

Medium maintenance

  • Periodic pruning, cleanup, or thinning
  • Seasonal fertilizer or pest management in some conditions
  • Reasonable for most homeowners or landscape crews

High maintenance

  • Needs regular pruning or shaping to look intentional
  • May drop heavy amounts of debris
  • Requires more monitoring for pests or structural issues

Better suited to people who enjoy gardening, or to managed properties with dedicated maintenance.

Wind Tolerance

We look at how a plant typically performs in strong storms when properly installed and cared for.

  • Poor – Prone to breakage or uprooting. Avoid in exposed, hurricane-prone spots.
  • Moderate – Acceptable in typical suburban conditions; may suffer damage in major storms.
  • Good – Generally holds up well in storms; may need cleanup but not full replacement.
  • Excellent – Historically strong performers in exposed sites with proper installation and staking.

Salt Tolerance

Important anywhere near the coast or exposed roadways that may see salt spray.

  • Not salt-tolerant – Should be kept away from salt spray or saline soils.
  • Light tolerance – Handles occasional light salt mist and breezes.
  • Moderate tolerance – Works in many coastal yards with some protection and decent soil conditions.
  • High tolerance – Suited for seacoast conditions and direct exposure.

Layers, Style, and Wildlife Value

Not everything we care about as designers is a strict scientific category. These labels reflect how we use plants in composition and how they support the broader ecosystem.

Layers in the Landscape

We often think in terms of layers:

  • Canopy – The upper story; trees and tall palms.
  • Midstory – Shrubs and small trees between knee and roof height.
  • Understory – Plants that thrive beneath canopy and midstory shade.
  • Border / edge – Plants near the front of beds and along hard edges.
  • Ground layer – Very low plants that fill in space and control weeds.
  • Accent / specimen – Focal plants meant to draw the eye.
  • Screen / hedge – Plants used primarily for privacy or visual blocking.

A good design usually uses several of these layers on purpose, instead of accidentally creating a flat “hedge wall.”

Aesthetic Style

We also tag plants to match common design styles:

  • Tropical – Bold foliage, rich color, lush form.
  • Coastal – Wind- and salt-tolerant plants with relaxed, beach-adjacent character.
  • Modern – Clean lines, simple forms, often strong repetition.
  • Cottage – Softer, more romantic mixes of flowers and textures.
  • Woodland – Shade-friendly, layered, naturalistic planting under trees.
  • Xeric – Low water, often architectural or textural in feel.
  • Naturalistic – Plantings that look more like a restored plant community than a clipped hedge.

These aren’t strict boxes, just helpful lenses when we’re matching plants to people’s homes and preferences.

Wildlife and Ecology

Some plants do more than just look good. We highlight traits like:

  • Nectar source – Supports pollinators such as bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds.
  • Larval host – Feeds the caterpillar stages of specific butterflies or moths.
  • Bird food – Provides berries, seeds, or habitat for birds.
  • Bird cover – Offers dense shelter and nesting opportunities.
  • Pollinator magnet – Attracts a wide range of insect pollinators.

If you care about attracting wildlife or supporting pollinators, these labels tell you which plants pull extra weight.

Why Pennate Publishes Its Plant Vocabulary

We could keep this language internal and let you guess what we mean by “low maintenance” or “full sun.” That’s how a lot of the industry operates.
Instead, we’d rather be clear.
We publish this vocabulary so that:

  • you can read a plant page and understand the tradeoffs
  • your design notes, plant list, and care instructions all speak the same language
  • professionals, DIYers, and even other firms can calibrate how they use our recommendations

These definitions are tuned for Florida, especially around Tampa Bay and the Gulf Coast. They are informed by research, but translated into something a homeowner can use on a Saturday morning without a degree in horticulture.

As we learn more, we’ll update this page. When we see mismatches between textbook behavior and real-world performance, we will say so. That feedback loop is the whole point.

References & Further Reading

These definitions are informed by research and guidance from:

Pennate adapts these technical guidelines into Florida-specific, consumer-friendly language based on field experience in real landscapes.

If you’re a professional designer, nursery, or institution interested in aligning your plant descriptions or digital tools with the Pennate vocabulary, you’re welcome to reach out. As our dataset grows, we intend for this language to stay open, understandable, and consistently grounded in the reality of Florida landscapes.